International AddressesĪt this present stage, Frankies Auto Electrics are unable to ship to International Addresses. Unfortunately, Frankie's Auto Electrics are unable to ship to PO Boxes, Parcel Lockers for insurance reasons at this time, an alternate shipping option may be offered. Shipping times to most capital and regional cities is 3-4 days however, rural areas or zones outside of the carriers normal run should expect an additional 72hrs (3 business days) Express Shippingįor express shipping, we offer a $25 FLAT RATE Australia wide shipping, however, larger/heavier items and remote areas may incur additional/higher fee which will be advised/quoted at the time of processing your order. Where stock allows, Frankie's aim to have all orders processed and shipped out within 48 hrs or 2 business days. Standard Shippingįrankie's offer a $9 FLAT RATE Australia-wide shipping, no matter how many items however, some larger/heavier items may incur a higher fee which will be communicated with you when your order(s) being processed. To organise a return of an item, please contact the store the purchase was made from, either via phone, email or dropping into the store. This time period includes the transit time for us to receive your return from the shipper (5 to 10 business days), the time it takes us to process your return once we receive it (3 to 5 business days), and the time it takes your bank to process our refund request (5 to 10 business days). You should expect to receive your refund within four weeks of giving your package to the return shipper, however, in many cases you will receive a refund more quickly. The balance of the refund will be issued as a store credit for purchase of your next product or paid directly back into your PayPal, ZipPay, Credit Card or Bank Deposit account. Frankies will pay the return shipping costs if the return is a result of our error (you received an incorrect or defective item, etc.). You may return most new, unopened items within 30 days of delivery for a full refund less a 20% re-stocking fee and any shipping costs which are unable to be retrieved. ML-Series Remote Control Contura Switch is not supplied with ACR. Label recesses for circuit identification.Silver alloy contacts provide high reliability for switching live loads.7/8″ (22mm) stud length accepts multiple cable terminals.3/8″-16 tin-plated copper studs for maximum conductivity and corrosion resistance.LED output to remotely indicate when batteries are combined, isolated, in voltage lockout, or in Start or Engine isolation.Engine Isolation (EI)-can be configured for isolation of two engines while both are running to protect engine electronics and maximize alternator output.Start Isolation (SI)-can be configured for temporary isolation of House loads from Engine circuit during engine cranking to protect sensitive electronics.Dual sensing-senses charge on both battery banks.Magnetic Latch (ML)-ACR draws very low current (500 Ampere continuous rating to support high-output alternators.Allows paralleling of battery banks for emergency starting.Automatically manages the charging of two large battery banks.Manual control switch provides an added level of safety allowing control with or without power, and offering LOCK OFF capability for servicing."I am also noticing that perhaps my STARTING BATTERY is draining my house battery when I have the charger on - further leading me to believe there is something wrong with either the switch (which is turned "off" when I charge) or the isolator, or both.Designed to Work with Charging and Isolatesĥ00 Amp magnetic latching (bi-stable) relay automatically combines batteries during charging and isolates batteries when discharging and when starting engine. if battery #2 wasn't connected, I would not get a reading from my gauge if the switch was set to #2.ĭoes this help anyone troubleshoot whether it is my isolator, switch, both, (or something else?)Īnd just saw an typo in my previous post - what I meant to say above is: (and if the switch is set to the #1 starting battery position, it will start)įor what's it's worth, this is a "new" problem, meaning that my switch previously worked - i.e. However, if the selector switch is off, the boat will not start, so I presume they go through the selector switch. OK - the wires from the starter go into a corrugated hose wrap and "dissapear." I am unable to determine by tracing whether they go directly to the batteries or through the selector switch.
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